The Tangled Nest

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Plan Now for a Late-Summer Pea Harvest!

March 8th, 2010

Here in the Pacific Northwest we say, “Plant your peas by President’s Day,” and though I wander about pontificating this wisdom, I never quite manage to follow it.  As usual, I’m late with my pea planting this year, but now that I’m finally getting to it, I wanted to let ya’ll in on a little pea secret I learned last year.

Peas

While perusing my trusty Maritime Northwest Garden Guide by Seattle Tilth, I found pod and snap peas listed in the “Sow Outdoors” list for July.  Planting peas in July?  I’d never heard of such a thing.  I called my various gardeny friends, including one of the editors of the Maritime Guide, and no one had ever tried it.  I had a few of my favorite Cascadia snap pea seeds left from the usual late-winter planting, so decided to give it a whirl.  The only space I had free in the garden was a narrow, and shaded in the afternoon, but I conjectured that since peas thrive in cool temperatures, that might work out.  By the end of August and through early September we had a beautiful little pea harvest.  It almost felt like cheating to be snapping crisp, luscious peas in the heat of late summer.

So this year I’m setting aside more seeds for a late-summer harvest–many garden shops and even catalogs quit offering peas much past May, so to do this we need to plan ahead. The common wisdom suggests planting peas in small trenches, and covering them as they grow.  I have never done this, and just plant them as I would a bean, about an inch down.  But last year I did finally start believing all the experts who said you should plant peas just one inch apart and not thin them.  That seems very close, and I always went for 2 inches, which seemed sensible, but the inch-apart pea planting brought forth the most lush, vibrant pea patch I’d ever had.

Happy Pea Season!

→ 2 CommentsTags: garden, seasons, urban farming

Pretty Patching: Giving Old Clothes New Life

February 28th, 2010

Even though I found them on the deep discount rack at REI, my Prana cargo pants were quite a splurge.  But in the spring of 2008 I was on my way to East Africa for two months, and the pants were so light weight, had a touch of spandex that made them perfect for everything from hiking to yoga, and had that appealing Prana too-hip-for-you styling.  I bought them, and it was one of those purchases I never ever regretted.

Outside Karen Blixen's house near Nairobi.

Outside Karen Blixen's house near Nairobi.

I wore them almost every single day, exploring Kenya and Tanzania.  When we entered a village where the women were required to wear skirts, I simply tied a kanga around my waist, over the pants.  In the heat of Africa, where a daypack added a layer of heat and sweat to even the shortest walk, I gained a new respect for my pants’ cargo pockets, which until then I’d though of as an unflattering aesthetic adornment.  On short hikes, my pants could hold lunch and water for Claire and me, a notebook, and my big field guide, The Birds of East Africa.

Lake Manyara, Tanzania

Lake Manyara, Tanzania

After Africa, I still wore my Pranas several times a week, on all my Pacific Northwest adventures, both urban and natural, and then climbing the ruins of Tulum last spring.  So you can imagine my despair when, while hiking in Joshua Tree a couple of weeks ago (in the Pranas, of course), Claire chimed in with, “Hey mama, I can see your undies.”  Sho’nuff.  There was a hole sprouting on my Prana bum that could no longer be ignored.

PantsHole

Getting rid of the pants was not an option, so when we got home I dug through the scrap bag to find a reasonably thick, but also pretty bit of fabric that would serve as a good patch.  I chose a flowered corduroy leftover from a skirt I’d made for Claire last year.  I wanted to do something a little playful, so cut the patch in the shape of a pear.

PantsPatch

To make an applique patch:   draw your design on paper in the size and shape you want, outline this with an extra 1/4 inch, then pin to fabric and cut out your patch.  Clip curves, and press the 1/4 inch under.  Don’t be lazy like me–take the extra 30 seconds to baste the patch in place, rather than just pinning it.  For applique, I  usually like to use a blanket stitch, but since this patch would be on my bum, I thought the extra threads from blanket stitch might get caught on things, so just used little slip stitches.  I sewed the patch on with two strands of embroidery floss in a contrasting pink, then embroidered a little leaf and stem.  If we’re going to bother to repair our clothes, why not have little fun with it?

SewLiberatedFor more inspiration on clothing reclaimation and whimsy, check out the beautiful new book Sew Liberated, by Meg McElwee .  Her emphasis is not on patching per se, but many of her ideas could be applied in the area of clothing repair.

This Christmas, everyone gathered at our house.  In a quiet moment, my mother-in-law asked my Grandmother Lyanda, who is 93 years old, to tell her about her life–an open-ended question that left the elder Lyanda a bit confused.  But finally she said, “I made all their coats.”  They were my mother and her two brothers, my uncles.  And my grandma didn’t make their coats out of wool from the store, but out of adult coats that had worn through at the elbows or elsewhere.  She took them apart, reclaimed the fabric, and made them into something beautiful and new.

Grandma Siglin this past Christmas, at age 93.

Grandma Lyanda Siglin this past Christmas, at age 93.

She sewed my coats, too, when I was little, also made over from adult coats. I remember a soft charcoal wool with covered buttons, a blue silk lining, and a fur collar that could snap on and off.  She made khaki coveralls for my sister and me, out of her sons’ army clothes.  She was a wonderful seamstress.  I wonder how we came to this day, where the first impulse when something is a bit worn is to replace it with something new?

What have you creatively rescued?  Clothes? Furniture? Fabric?  We’d love to hear about it.

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Indian Plum: First Forest Flowers

February 20th, 2010

Amdist the brown branches of February woodlands and urban forests in the Pacific Northwest, one native shrub always turns out the first flowers and bright new leaves– the Indian Plum.  The pendants of tiny greenish-white flower clusters fall beneath glowing green leaves that stick straight up, like the ears of a rabbit.

IndianPipeFlower

The flowers will mature into clusters of red-purple fruits, and were eaten cooked or dried by various Washington Salish groups.  The bitter bark was sometimes chewed and applied to muscle strains.

Also called osoberry, the Indian Plum is not really very plummish.  The fruits are dry, tart, and pithy. They do gather some sweetness as they ripen, but it’s hard to get a good mature one–birds (especially robins, waxwings, and jays) eat them as quick as they appear.  But heck, almost anything tastes good if you boil it down with enough sugar and drop it into a bowl of ice cream. I’ve eaten Indian Plums that way, and they weren’t half bad.  Worth a try just to say you did, and for the reminder of everyday sustenance in the natural world.

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Valentine Sanity (and a little break)

February 11th, 2010

heart shaped potato

Dear friends, I’ll be taking a short break from all things technological for the next ten days or so.  See you here when I get back.  Meanwhile…

I’ve noticed a disturbing trend in the last couple of years.  Friends call a day or two before Valentine’s Day, stressed out. “I have to make 30 Valentines by tomorrow, and I don’t even have the ’stuff!’  What do I do?  Do you know a simple Valentine pattern?  Help!”  (Multiply 30 x the number of school-aged kids in the family for total Valentines needed.) One friend’s Facebook update last February 13th read:  “Midnight.  60 Valentines done, 30 to go, shoot me now!”  Even Claire last year, when she had a big science project coming due and needed to practice cello, exclaimed one day, “Oh my gosh mommy, when are we going to make Valnetines?”  with a note of  anxiety in her voice.  This can’t be right, and it’s definitely not what “handmade” should be about.

Modern Valentine’s Day is a corporate manufactured celebration that might be considered optional for adults.  But it’s different for kids–the exchange of Valentines at a school party, all of them dropped into decorated desktop boxes–is a highlight of the year.  Remember all the tiny heart-and-animal cards with the bad puns?  “You’re Purrrfect, Valentine,” and the squirrel who says “I’m Nuts for You?”  They’re still out there.  Kids love to make Valentines–until they’ve made about five of them.  Then they’re often bored (and someone has to make the rest…).  I’m certainly not arguing that we should all buy our kids’ Valentines, I’m just saying this:  If it brings you and your kids joy, then get out the basket of scissors and paper and glue, and have fun.  But if it brings you stress, then good heavens, store-bought Valentines are not a crime.  Put up your feet, have a nice heart-shaped piece of chocolate, and feel the love that surrounds us all, whether we “get it all done,” or not.

See you in ten days.

Thanks to Flickr user RavenForLenore for the CC-licensed heart potato image.

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Our Urban Chicken Coop Plan

February 7th, 2010

Feed stores will be getting their chicks in the next couple of months, and if you’re pondering the addition of a backyard flock this year (we hope you are!), it’s time to start thinking about a coop.  There’s still lots of time–this year’s chicks won’t be ready to go outside by themselves until May or June–but it doesn’t hurt to start gathering plans, ideas, and materials. So today: A soup-to-nuts look at our year-old coop.

CoopThruGate480

In our last house, we re-purposed a corner of the separate garage for a coop, but this time we started from scratch.  Having lost hens to both raccoons and feral ferrets (!), we incorporated lessons from harsh experience into our coop design.  Still, I was thinking “Chicken coop:  we’ll hammer four walls together, add a roof, cut a little door, fence it up good, and Voila!”  Then my dad called–my dad Jerry, the stone mason, from the “If You’re Gonna Build It, Build It Right” school.  He said, “I need a little project.  You wouldn’t mind if I helped work on your chicken coop, would you?”  I know he secretly feared what we’d build without him.  With Jerry’s expertise, we ended up with a coop that is as beautiful as it is functional.

Coop_JerryMeasure480

For four hens, we chose to build a 6×4′ raised coop, with an enclosed area beneath, set inside a larger, fully-enclosed aviary.  As you can see, the coop is raised on cedar posts set in concrete footing, and framed they way you would build any small shed. It has a sloped roof with an overhang on all four sides. We used a hodgepodge of leftover, gifted, used, and new materials, and spent a few hundred dollars. The wood for the walls is half inch plywood, which happens to have a stamped pattern on it (it is not T-111, which isn’t sturdy enough for wet Seattle weather).  At the end of this post there’s a downloadable plan with all the dimensions of our coop.

CoopFrame480

Our coop design has two doors: a big “human door” in the front for easy access, egg gathering, ventilation, and cleaning, and a chicken door on the left side with a ramp.

Coop2Doors_480

We leave both of them open during  the day, and although the chickens can jump in and out of the human door, they usually prefer to use the chicken door.  So funny!  Of course all gates and doors latch tightly.

Coop_SideDoor480

Coop_Staples_480Though the chickens have a larger run, underneath the coop we built a cage Tom calls “Chicken Guantanamo,” where they can be outdoors and still be fully protected if we need to leave them for an extended period. We completely enclosed the area beneath the coop with 1/2 inch metal hardware cloth, buried 10 inches into the ground. We also buried a “floor” of hardware cloth several inches under ground, and sewed it with wire to the buried fence to prevent burrowing by rats/raccoons. Chicken wire is not acceptable, as raccoons can reach right through it and grab a chicken. We made a discovery: the hardware store carries sturdy arched nails called “poultry net staples” for attaching the hardware cloth.

Coop_Bottom_Ly_480

The cage below the coop is accessed from the outside through a small gate which, when open, allows the chickens into the covered Coop_Under_door_480area for shade, and protection from the rain.  But more importantly, we  designed it so that if we need to leave overnight, we open a trapdoor on the floor of the coop,  and give the chickens full access to the coop and the outdoor cage beneath it while keeping them safe.  Most days we don’t use the trap door at all–we just let them out in the yard during the day, and close them up in the coop at night.  But the trap door to “Guantanamo” works great when we need it, and we’ve been grateful for this setup many times.

CoopTrapSq480

CoopRampUnder480

Marigold the Buff Orpington, going down the ramp from the trap door. The slats on the chicken ramps look cute and "chicken-coopish," but they are also necessary--the chickens really use them to keep from sliding.

The roof has a ten inch overhang, and even during this year’s wet, blustery Seattle winter, not a drop of water got in the coop.  My friend JoJo gave me a bundle of cedar shakes he’d picked up somewhere years ago–they have a tattered label, and are clear, old growth western red cedar, milled locally in 1964! I wouldn’t buy old growth cedar today (even if I could afford it), but was grateful to put these to use.  Jerry covered the roof with roofing cloth before nailing down the shakes.

CoopGateWide480

To prevent future warping, Jerry insisted on cedar for all the gates and door frames.

Around the coop is a fully-enclosed chicken yard. For this we used “hog wire,” which is both stronger, and looks nicer than chicken wire. The raccoons in our neighborhood are bold, and wander about in broad daylight–it was absolutely necessary to have the overhead protection. Some urban chicken farmers just create a little closed-in pen, covered at waist-height, but we love to hang out with the chickens, and wanted to be comfortable standing in their yard. We like to let the girls range freely in our backyard when supervised, but most of the time we keep them in their run, safe from neighborhood predators, dogs, and away from the garden.

Some chicken keepers leave the water and food out during the day.  I like to keep it in the coop, so I don’t have to move it inside at night.  You can make your own feeder/waterers, but these metal ones from the feed store are hard to beat.  Hanging the food keeps it free from litter, and discourages the chickens from sitting on top of it (and pooping there…).  But the water sloshes from a chain, so I just put it up on some bricks to keep it out of the coop litter (currently we’re using coffee chaff).

CoopInsideFeed480CoopEggsSquareOne rookie coop building error is the construction of a nest box for every single chicken.  We promise you– as we discovered ourselves with out first coop–that no matter how many nest boxes you have, the chickens will all lay their eggs in one nest!  Why??? We don’t know, but it’s true…One nest box suffices for four hens. The wooden crates that you can find in dumpsters outside of vegetable stands make perfect nest boxes.  I nailed a board across the bottom to keep the straw in. There are also natural branches inside the coop for nocturnal roosting.

The very best part of our coop?  Our daughter Claire’s old wooden crate, in the aviary.  She sits there with the chickens for an hour at a time,  petting them when they jump in her lap.  Sometimes she brings a book.  She says she feels just like Fern in Charlotte’s Web. We leave an old raincoat by the backdoor, and her boots, and she cuddles the  chickens in all weather.

CoopClaireFour480Here’s a simple plan for our coop (PDF), ready for your own modifications. The photos from this post, and more images of our coop and foul endeavors, are in Tom’s Flickr account (at a higher resolution and under a Creative Commons license – feel free to re-use them).

CoopTallClosed480

Yes, it's painted orange and green--a pleasing mix-match from the leftovers of friends' housepainting projects.

Obviously we love our coop and it brought us pleasure to build it, though it did take the better part of five days, and the support of my experienced and indefatigable dad (Thanks, Jerry!). But don’t feel daunted! The web is full of great examples of simple coops made inexpensively from found materials (as well as coops much fancier than ours!). Or find inspiration, as we did, in the terrific book, Chicken Coops: 45 Building Plans for Housing Your Flock. Better still, have a look at what your chicken keeping neighbors are up to.  Chickens are great for local community building, and everyone loves to talk about their own chickens and coop.  If you hear clucking on a neighborhood walk, see if the chicken farmer is around and say “hi.”  And if you have questions or ideas that worked wonderfully in your own coop, we’d love to hear them!

Here are previous chicken-related posts on The Tangled Nest, including this one on caring for chicks in a homemade biddy box.  There are tons of resources for urban chicken farmers on the web, including this great page by Seattle Tilth.

CoopDelilah480


→ 13 CommentsTags: chickens, urban farming

Upcycled Burlap Bags in the Garden (and Farewell to Grass)

February 1st, 2010

Don't know abou y'all, but I'm dreaming of summer.  It helps to keep the summer garden in mind, when doing the winter chores...

Don't know about y'all, but I'm dreaming of summer. It helps to keep the summer garden in mind when doing the winter chores in the brown mud...

Last year we expanded our vegetable garden three-fold by converting grass into raised beds.  My plan for last autumn was to sheet mulch the last row of grass that receives any sun, making it ready for spring planting.  Sheet mulching is the  great, labor-saving method of converting any grassy-weedy area into a nutrient-rich garden bed by layering compostable material onto it, and letting it sit for several months.  It mimics natural systems, in which layers of leafy litter fall to the earth and compost over time, without tilling.  Many garden websites have instructions for sheet mulching–these from the New York Permaculture Exchange are pretty straightforward.  BUT of course I was too busy or lazy or something  last fall and didn’t get to the sheet mulching, which meant, yesterday, gathering my little Urban Land Army (Tom and Claire) and going at the sod with a shovel.

Coffee_digCU_480

This is a controversial step–urban soil tends to be so distressed, removing the top layer of grass also removes any semblance of a soil ecosystem, and most permaculturists recommend mulching and planting over the grass.  But I am a little neurotic about grass removal.  In my experience, grass is SO tenacious–it starts growing back around the garden edges, and sprouting up between my carrots, no matter how much soil is piled on top of it.  It stresses me out.  As much as I agree with the permaculture philosophy, in my own yard (once the chance for sheet mulching has passed), I am a grass-remover-soil-amender, doing as much as I can to rebuild the soil after sod removal, with the help of chickens and compost and future good habits.  Besides, I like digging with my family…

Coffee_bed480

The new bed isn’t that big–2 feet wide by maybe 20 feet long.  We removed as much of the wormy soil from the sod as we could, and put the rest in the chickens’ pen.  They were tickled, nibbling grass and finding worms all afternoon.  They’ll have it converted to fine, manure-rich soil in no time.

Coffee_chich_480

Meanwhile, my friend David, who works on making the waste products from the coffee industry available  to gardeners through his UpCycle Northwest project (and who I wrote about in the recent coffee chaff in the chicken coop post) was looking for gardeners to experiment with chaff and spent grounds as soil amendment, and burlap coffee bags as weed block/sheet mulch.  We said “Sure!” and he showed up yesterday like Santa Claus with a truck full of bags and chaff and coffee grounds. We wet down the new bed, layered it with the nitrogen-rich chaff and grounds, and–to speed composting for late spring planting– covered it with the burlap. I intend to amend the soil further with composted chicken manure from the coop.  We’ll soil test and see how it turns out.

David, spreading chaff.

David, spreading chaff.

Coffee_bagsdown_480

The burlap coffee bags are beautiful, and I loved reading their stamped labels as we spread them–they came from Guatemala, Indonesia, Ethiopia, Mexico…David saves the ones with the cleanest, nicest labels for crafters, who repurpose them into handbags.  The rest are offered to gardeners, for whom they nicely replace that nasty plastic weekblock, and make the perfect first layer in a sheet mulch.  I am planning to plant this bed in a couple of months, so we will probably remove the burlap, rather than letting it fully compost, but I’ll try it as proper sheet mulch in the future, and will let you know how this experiment fares.

CoffeeBedAfter_480

You’ll see there is some grass left, and if we lived somewhere that grass required upkeep, I would remove all of it.  But the rest of our grass is all in the shade, unsuitable for most food gardening.  We never water it, just let it die back in the summer, and it’s mostly moss (which is soft), and dandelions (which we and the hens can eat).  We use one corner to pitch our backyard camping tent in the summer, and a nice mossy spot for a quilt where we read and play games.  I am very pleased that, at least at this house, my grass removing days are complete!

For  information on obtaining burlap coffee bags, and more on upcycling, (the in-word for smarter/better recycling, making use of the energy in the initial production of something, rather than using more energy to break it down into raw materials–or, as David puts it, finding “the highest and best re-use for the material rather than the easiest or most obvious”), see David’s website, Seattle Burlap.

And for more on turning lawns into food, explore the wonderful Cascadia Food Not Lawns website!

→ 17 CommentsTags: garden, permaculture, upcycling, urban farming

The One Pot: Lodge Cast Iron Dutch Oven

January 24th, 2010

Every morning it’s the same.  I wake up in the darkness while my loved ones still sleep.  I tiptoe into the kitchen to make coffee.  The Pot sits there on the stove, in the shadows.  And out of the silence, it speaks:  “Well, Haupt, what’s for dinner?”  What a rude question before I am even caffeinated!  I could prevent this inquisition, of course, by putting The Pot away at night, but the thing is too dang heavy.  It’s my 5 quart Lodge cast iron dutch oven.  It’s the pot I use, and (in spite of the morning inquest) love the most.

Cast iron is heavy--or easy lifting, choose a dutch oven with handles on both sides.

Cast iron is heavy--for easy lifting, choose a dutch oven with handles on both sides.

I recall a sweet little piece called “The Pupil and the Black Pot,”  penned by a young monk for The Zen Monastary Cookbook:

It is the biggest pot I have ever seen.
It is the heaviest pot I have ever lifted.
It can feed a biblical number of people.
It can empty in an awesomely short amount of time.
It can glisten incredibly tempting.
It is one of the kitchen cornerstones.
It is one of the mute role models of monastic life, never complaining,
always ready to serve, a forever forgiving teacher.

So true!  My mother has a pot like this, and so does my grandmother, and probably your grandmother.  Their mothers had one.  Ma Ingalls packed one in the covered wagon when she traveled with her family from Minnesota to the Dakota Territories.  It’s small wonder that cast iron has endured–a nicely seasoned cast iron pan is as slick as any manufactured nonstick surface, and distributes and retains heat more evenly than any pan but copper (much better than stainless or aluminum!).  But compared to copper or good stainless, it is practically free.

LodgeCoverMy 5 quart Lodge  cast iron dutch oven was a gift from my mother a few years ago, and you can get a new one for about $30.  My cast iron skillet, which an elderly landlord gave to me in college, was a wedding gift to her when she was married over 70 years ago–it couldn’t be in better shape. Lodge is the only domestic manufacturer of cast iron cookware, still using some of their original molds, which are over 100 years old.  The pans are cast of scrap steel converted back into iron, and pig-iron ingot (an intermediate stage in the melting of iron ore).  You can get cheaper cast iron, but its hard to beat Lodge quality (cheaper pans will have hot spots, and may eventually crack with heavy use or high heat).  I love the look of good cast iron–so rich and rustic.  It moves easily from the stovetop to the oven, and I use it for almost everything.

An early autumn soup with the last of the garden tomatoes, the first of the winter squash, and lots of pretty chard.  Even Claire will eat chard if I serve it with biscuits.

An early autumn soup with the last of the garden tomatoes, the first of the winter squash, and lots of pretty chard. Even Claire will eat chard if I serve it with biscuits.

People fuss about seasoning, which sounds mysterious and time-consusming, but is actually very simple.  Heat the oven to 350.  Wash and dry your pan, then heat it gently over low heat on the stovetop (don’t forget about it!).  Rub the pan evenly inside and out with a neutral oil (corn is great, canola is fine), then bake in the oven for about an hour, and let it cool there before removing it.  Done!  Repeat a couple of times a year, or do a booster-seasoning if your pan seems to need it, or if you cook a particularly acidic dish.  Wipe off excess oil after seasoning, especially if you aren’t going to use the pan for a few days–you don’t want the oily surface to become sticky and rancid.  Many Lodge pots now come pre-seasoned, but it’s still nice to give them a light washing and seasoning at home before use.  The finish will just become lovelier over the years.

There is a looming myth that you will forever ruin the seasoning on a cast iron pot if you scrub it with soap.  While it’s true that a light wiping is all that is normally needed and rigorous scouring should be avoided, a little scrub with mild soap now and then won’t hurt a thing.  Dry the pan and lid well after washing to prevent rust, and if some turns up, gently remove it with steel wool.

Cast iron adds a small but measurably healthy trace of iron to our cooking.. The lid of the dutch oven is lined with prongs, which collect condensed moisture and drop it into the pot, so you can steam many vegetables without an insert, including sturdy greens like chard and kale.  Can’t beat it for sauces, soups, and stews.  In addition to stovetop frying, the skillet can be used for frittatas, quiches, cobblers, even pie– and of course it is the pan of choice for corn bread.

Simple buttermilk-cornbread accompanied last night's chili.

Simple buttermilk-cornbread accompanied last night's chili.

Cast iron is heavy, which is one of the reasons that elderly people sometimes stop using it, and beautiful seasoned cast iron will turn up at yard and estate sales, or sit unused in the back of our grandmother’s cupboard–have a look.  Expensive modern cookware gleans much of its appeal from marketing and television chef endorsements.  Cast iron will most often perform just as well (or better), and looks just as good.  I love that we can stand in this historical cookware lineage, have wonderful pots, spend very little money, and cook healthfully all at once.

For more than you could ever want to know about the care of cast-iron (including the repair of cracks), check out this website.

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Stand With Haiti

January 16th, 2010

Dear friends, I hope you won’t mind an off-topic post this week.  Many of you know that Tom, my husband, works for a global health program at the University of Washington, and that his group has an office in Haiti with more than thirty local staff.  Because of this, we’ve been receiving queries from friends and family asking for Tom’s thoughts on the best way to be of assistance.  He wrote a post about this for his blog, Bikejuju, and I’m sharing it here.  As a family, we are also paring down a little–eating simple meals from things we find in the pantry and winter garden, trying to use less water, cutting out unessential shopping.  I know this doesn’t really help, but it does keep us mindful that our tangled nest is part of a tangled world.  Peace to all, and here is Tom’s post:

For the past two days I have spent most of my work hours focused on the situation in Haiti. The organization I work for has an office in Haiti, with 33 staff, all of whom were deeply affected by the earthquake, including the loss or injury of loved ones, and catastrophic property destruction.
haitism
This isn’t a bike post. This is a simple request that you pitch in. I have selected Partners in Health as the medical organization I think is the best recipient of your support at this time. They have operated in Haiti for over 20 years, are fully equipped at multiple sites, operate with low administrative costs, and are scaling up very rapidly on the ground. I have visited their main hospital site in Cange (featured in the book Mountains Beyond Mountains), and I know the quality of their work first hand.

Partners in Health has set up a new website at StandWithHaiti.org.

There are also other good agencies working rapidly to respond in Haiti, including Doctors Without Borders.

Please stand with Haiti.

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Super Quick Sandwich Bread For Busy Days

January 11th, 2010

On Sundays, Claire and I like to bake her favorite sandwich bread for the coming week’s school lunches.  It’s a sweet routine.  We mix up the dough right away in the morning.  During the first  two-hour rising, we all go to the neighborhood farmer’s market. (We’re fortunate to have a year-round market here in West Seattle, and I love the winter fare–calmer than in the summer, the stalls are fewer and full of quiet things like cheeses, cider, and chard.  I figure if the farmers are nice enough to stand there in the freezing cold Seattle drizzle, the least we can do is turn up and buy a squash.)  We get home just in time to pan the bread, letting it rise a second time while we eat lunch.

Bread_loaf

Molasses gives this bread a beautiful golden color without adding too much sweetness.

There are times, of course, when we just can’t be around to hover over the lovely pattern of rising-panning-rising-baking.  But my daughter seems to have become spoiled on home-baked bread, and declares any store-bought sandwich bread to taste “like chicken feed.”  (How does she know what chicken feed tastes like?  She won’t say…).  For such occasions, we have been enjoying a whole wheat quick bread adapted from  King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking that, while not quite as good as our favorite yeasted breads, is still pretty darn tasty. This bread keeps well, and  though there is a little brown sugar and molasses in it, it’s not too sweet, and has a rustic, old-fashioned flavor–it tastes just as good with a nutty cheddar as it does with our homemade peanut butter and blackberry jam.

Yummy Quick Molasses Nut Bread

2 cups whole wheat flour  (traditional whole wheat, or white wheat both work beautifully)
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (one stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup light brown sugar
2 large eggs
1/3 cup molasses
1 1/4 cups milk
2 tablespoons orange juice
1-1 1/4 cups chopped nuts (walnuts are yummy in this recipe, but go ahead and experiment)

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, soda, and salt.

In a large mixing bowl, cream the sugar and butter until light and fluffy.  Add the eggs one at a time.  Beat in the molasses.  Add 1/2 the flour mixture, then about half the milk, then the rest of the flour, then the last of the milk and the orange juice, mixing until moistened after each addition.  If using a stand mixer, scrape the sides of the bowl as needed throughout the entire  process.  Stir in the nuts.

Transfer the batter to a buttered or oiled 9 x 5 loaf pan.  Bake in a 300 degree oven for an hour and 10-15 minutes.  Check the bread in an hour–if it seems to be too dark on top, cover it lightly with foil for the last bit of baking. Let the finished bread sit 20 minutes before removing it from the pan, then allow it to cool completely before slicing.

The long baking time at this lower temperature allows the bran to become thoroughly moistened by the wet ingredients, making a wonderful, tender bread.  I love a hunk of this bread toasted plain with my morning coffee.  It’s dense, so slice thinly for sandwiches.  Enjoy!

→ 14 CommentsTags: bread, recipes

Coffee Chaff Chicken Coop Litter: Creative Upcycling for the Urban Farmer

January 2nd, 2010

My friend David Ruggiero is working on a new project called “Upcycling Northwest.”  Upcycling, of course, is the in-word for smarter/better recycling, making use of the energy in the initial production of something, rather than using more energy to break it down into raw materials–or, as David puts it, finding “the highest and best re-use for the material rather than the easiest or most obvious.”  David is sure that there is more to upcycling than making arty handbags out of gum wrappers. With Upcycling Northwest, he’s trying to hook folks up with useful industrial castoffs.  And in Seattle, what better place to start than with the coffee industry?

A few weeks ago, David sent an email around to his many intrepid gardener friends, inviting us to try out coffee bean chaff–the light, airy husks blown off the beans during roasting–as mulch and compost.  I said “sure,” and it wasn’t long before David darkened my doorstep with a big bag of the fluffy stuff.

Chaff_Handful

I admit I wasn’t feeling super-hopeful about the mulch idea–the chaff is so soft and light, and the winter garden is so wet and mucky–I thought I might wait until spring.  But David mentioned he’d been using it in place of wood chips in the chicken coop, and that captured my imagination.  Next time I cleaned out the coop, I replaced the white wood shavings with a few inches of coffee chaff.

Chaff_coop

The chickens were hilarious.  Like cats, they can be unnerved by novelty, and I wasn’t sure what they would think of their new chaffy home.  But they all immediately ran into the coop, and started “playing” in the chaff, tossing it up with their bills.  SO funny.  There are pros and cons to coffee chaff in the chicken coop, but on balance, I’ve decided to keep using it.  Here’s my report:

Cons: So light that it flies around, gets in the chicken water.  Turns slimy when wet.

Pros: Free!  Upcycled!  No link to the timber industry.  Smells like coffee.  Light–easy to handle.  Clumps with chicken poop a bit  like scoopable kitty litter–easy to remove from coop.  Swiftly composts.

At first the chaff is so ultra-fluffy, the chickens sort of sink in it.  They seem to really enjoy this!

At first the chaff is so ultra-fluffy, the chickens sort of sink in it. They seem to really enjoy this!

Most coffee roasters will be happy to pass their chaff along to you. Just ask. Usually it is just tossed into the compost bin or, more often, the landfill.  Spent coffee grounds and over-roasted beans are often available as well (check out this little article by Seattle garden doyenne Ann Lovejoy about the many uses for coffee industry by-products–for mulch, compost, garden paths…).  Coffee chaff is rich in nitrogen and other nutrients, and I look forward to mixing it with my vegetable garden mulch.  Tomatoes are reputed to love the stuff.  David is also looking into the use of those great burlap bags in which coffee is imported as a replacement for that plastic weed-blocking material (see his website for info on obtaining and using post-coffee burlap).   More to come on all of this…

Meanwhile, if you are a latte-sipping urban chicken farmer, I hope you’ll give coffee bean chaff a try in your coop, and let us know how it works for you!

→ 17 CommentsTags: chickens, garden, upcycling, urban farming, waste reduction